Graffiti row

A narrow passageway, both sides covered end to end in graffiti and tags.
A bicycle part with handlebars is mounted just above the gate.

Déli-Cieux

 Grab a tray from the cafeteria and head to the outside terrace for a 360° déli-cieux view.

 

 Printemps Department Store Haussmann

Leap of faith

 

 

Detail from quirky Left Bank restaurant, Roger La Grenouille ("Roger The Frog"). Anyone who believes that frogs’ legs taste like chicken can decide here, where both are served. Inside, what appears to be a portrait is a man with a napkin tucked under his chin.

 

Pique-nique en ville

With vacationers still away it's easy to find a quiet spot for a pique-nique in a city park, here, beneath a giant tree in Parc Monceau.

Parasols

Parasols, a quintessentially French fashion accessory from bygone days, prettily decorate the outside of a small shop just around the corner from the Picasso Museum.

Farewell aux plages

As August winds down so does Paris-Plages, the annual urban project that put a whole new spin on "stay-cation." 

Above: relaxing w/champagne and (free) city wi-fi

 

Below: members of a jazz trio take a break; a small bar w/potted palms has been set up as river boats cruise by in the background

 

 

 

 

 

Invitingly steep

It's difficult not to run into an enchanting stairway at almost every turn in Montmartre.

Christmas in August

  This vintage car parked at a café invites visions of travel; of rolling vineyards, scarves in the wind, roadside champagne picnics.

Urban volleyball

For August, volleyball courts were set up in the city center in front of the main Town Hall complete with sand, live music, palm trees, refreshments and changing tents, attracting swimsuit-clad players, some in speedos.

Summer day dresses

An earlier post last May, "Back to the dress," received so many views I thought I'd include these bright day dresses as summer draws to a close.

Some dress boutiques like this one will have a selection of shoes to match specific dresses.

Heroines Saint Germain

4 rue de Buci 75006

Marché staple

Cool mornings, early to market, whether street, roving or covered. In Paris - and all over France, even in the smallest villages - markets will always have flowers for the table.

Time travel

Clock sculpture by French-born U.S. artist Armand Pierre Fernandez (1928-2005) aptly placed at Gare Saint-Lazare, a bustling travel hub.

View from the tracks

View of the Eiffel Tower from window looking onto train tracks and a footbridge.

Open all summer

A rare sight in August, a sign that reads, "Open all summer." Besides breads this boulangerie has pastries, quiches and "sandwichs," all freshly made daily on their premises.

Ever since my brother Ralph's beautiful wedding reception I've been on the lookout for the perfect quiche canapés. These are probably as close as I'll ever get.

Be-jewelled #3

Detail from underneath blue section of Othoniel's métro entrance sculpture.

Be-jewelled #2

A side view. The artist, Jean-Michel Othoniel, works with Murano glass from Venice. His fountain installations can be seen at the Palace of Versailles.

Be-jewelled

Behind a kiosk near the Louvre a multi-colored art construction that serves as a métro entrance sparkles in the morning light. As you descend, even more colored glass decorates the walls inside.

View across the Seine

 

A view from the banks of the river made possible because traffic was diverted for the annual "beach" scene, Paris-Plages. On the right, Notre-Dame Cathedral's towers.

Ready & waiting

A café on Place Colette, named after the writer who lived nearby, ready for its first customers of the day.

LVMH steps out

Once again Fashion Week will descend on Paris in September with endless parties, poseurs and Pretty People. Here, luxury bag brand Louis Vuitton struts samples from its shoe collection. That's right. Shoes. 

L'Ambroisie

Recently, I found myself dining at L’Ambroisie, a gastronomic jewel I'd written up for USA Today that sits at the top of many a foodie’s Bucket List. Helmed by mega chefs Bernard and Mathieu Pacaud, it's been called "the star among the Michelin three stars."

Here's the review:

 

So who did Bill Clinton know to get a table at this Michelin 3-star during a State visit? If you can get a reservation here – gear up to start trying months in advance – consider yourself one of the world’s chosen few. Their awe-inspiring offerings are conversation stoppers, from the tiniest ameuse-geule morsels to reverie-inducing main courses. Small and discreet, L’Ambroisie is nestled under the arches of the Place des Vosges. Expectedly, very expensive. 

 

Years later, little has changed.

Classical French cuisine never goes out of style. We decided to just go for it and ordered a variety of courses, all the way to dessert. Above, melt-in-the-mouth caramelized medallions of foie gras de canard with a radish-turnip garnish.

Escalopines de bar à l’émincé d’artichaut, caviar golden....  "Sea bass with minced artichoke and caviar" is an inadequate description: fish so fresh you’d think it was caught minutes before.

Bursting with flavor poulet from Bresse smothered in its own jus and tiny wild mushrooms.

Noisettes d’agneau de Lozère poëlées au beurre de sarriette, pommes "boulangères".... Fork tender lamb with a natural crunchy crust. Below, a selection of aged farm cheeses being cut to order.

Kaz, it was a pleasure. As my father used to say (after every meal, and in his French accent), "I have had good meals in my life, but this one beats them all!" So, until the next one....

L'Ambroisie
9 Place des Vosges 75004

 

Closed Sunday and Monday 

Water wall

It's early at Place de l'Hôtel de Ville, and the only sounds as the city awakens are from this sparkly fountain.

Café-journaux ritual

As much as the internet and TV have become main sources for news, for me, nothing compares to getting installed at a café on a market street with the morning papers.

The right to vacation

In Paris, getting away in August is considered so essential that each year the city sets aside a sizable budget to create Paris Plages along the banks of the Seine, a bogus but fun "beach" set up for those who stay behind.

Hold the marshmallow

Le Vrai Paris, a popular Happy Hour café on rue des Abbesses, tops off its cocktails with a marshmallow.

Tip of the island

A secluded corner on the Île Saint-Louis overlooks quais of the Seine, the river, bridges, and Right Bank beyond.