Transient Tuesday

 

 

Paris pauses between seasons.

 

Behind: 

Marché Saxe-Breteuil 

Left Bank

 

Market Monday

 

 

Marché Saxe-Breteuil 

Left Bank

 

A popular open-air farmers’ market in the 7th arrondissement that stretches along Avenue de Saxe from Place de Breteuil toward Avenue de Ségur and the École Militaire - complete with a knockout Eiffel Tower backdrop. 

 

Open:

Thursdays: 7:00 – 13:30
Saturdays: 7:00 – 14:30

Closed all other days

Saturday savor

 

 

From Farm to Face:

Collagen-packed tête de veau with its sauce gribiche and pommes vapeur

***

Women pour small fortunes into collagen powders, peptides, capsules, serums, injections, and “beauty from within” supplements in pursuit of plump skin, bouncy joints, and that elusive youthful glow. Yet few have a clue that a single generous plate of tête de veau is basically the unfiltered equivalent: pure, slow-cooked collagen delivered straight from the source. One sitting and cheeks get the full spa treatment for free - radiating that same “I just spent $300 on fillers” sheen, only this time accompanied by a sauce gribiche (or ravigote) and preferably a full-bodied grease-cutting red wine, and the quiet satisfaction of knowing you just ate your way through a collagen motherlode.

Not for vegetarians, vegans or the easily startled, tête de veau - literally “calf’s head" - exemplifies French nose-to-tail cooking also found in German, Belgian, Italian (testina di vitello), Swiss and other European cuisines. A cold-weather bistro classic, its gelatinous mouthfeel can hit like a culinary ambush.

As it's not usually a regular on the printed carte, finding it on a menu today is the ultimate sign of a dedicated old-school kitchen. Or, as in our case, above, it can suddenly appear among the blackboard "Plats du jour" choices without fanfare, so you have to watch for it.

Notoriously a favorite of Jacques Chirac, or so the story goes, tête de veau was presented to him everywhere he went - until one day he politely clarified that yes, while he did love it, he wouldn’t mind an occasional other dish from the traditional French repertoire. - BPJ 

Floral Friday

 An autumn terrace.

Above: cafés, bars and restaurants across all 20 arrondissements have been allowed to keep their temporary pop-up street terraces til end of November

Thankful Thursday

 

 

Café crème bien blanc, fresh orange juice, tartine crumbs, outside on a brisk morning.

***

There’s a particular kind of magic in claiming a sunny terrace seat on a cold day. The air bites sharp and clean at noses and cheeks, while the sun still manages to warm shoulders through a coat. The contrast feels almost luxurious. As fingers tighten around the hot cup, you are grateful for the heat against the chill. Steam rises from the coffee, the orange juice glows in the cold light, and every sip is richer for the weather’s quiet defiance. All is well. - BPJ 

 

Wine Wednesday

 

A tiny taste of Paris... One glass at a time.

 

Treeful Tuesday

A tree quietly referees each side.